23rd September 2010, Birding in Papua New Guinea:
Trip
Papua New Guinea (PNG) 5th September 2010 - 21st September 2010
Participants: 11 participants from Finland + tour leader Juha Honkala
Traveling route: Port Moresby - Varirata - Kiunga - Tabubil - Mt Hagen - Tari - Port Moresby

PNG is arguably the most exotic birding destination on Earth with bird families like Birds of Paradise, Paradise-kingfishers and Crowned Pigeons. On the other hand country has quite a reputation as a dangerous, expensive and difficult to travel destination. By experiences of this trip there seems to be some truth in it too.

We experienced one minor hassle with a drunken local, fortunately the vast majority of people are very friendly and there are no such nuisance with bumsters and beggars as is the situation in some other countries I have been visiting. But I would recommend to be extra careful in cities like Port Moresby and Hagen, even in broad daylight. We were moving with group and had experienced local quides to take care of us most of the time, so obviously the possible problems were quite subsided.

The main purpose of this trip was to observe birds in a selection of different biotopes, including lowlands, forests and mountains at different altitudes. This is usual approach on commercial birding tours: spend a few days on each location/biotope to maximize the number of birds seen, two to three days on each site seems to be the norm for most of trips.

Special flavor of PNG is the remoteness and lack of infrastructure, even for the most visited sites. We were moving by bus, boat and 4WD, while any of the longer distances were done by plane.

Possibilites for accomodation in PNG are sparse and expensive, booking well beforehand is recommended. By looking some of the lodge room prices there, I would consider them the most expensive in World, if you consider in the standard of rooms and services.

Bird Photography: PNG and bird photography in two words: very difficult. Most of forest birds are extra shy, to get half second glimpse of bird is a slice of luck, then to have it also photographed is nothing short of miracle. To top it up we were moving with a group of twelve with addition of local guide. In forest path that is a well known kiss of death for most of bird photography.

Fortunately there were two exceptions for rule in our route: PAU university park ponds near Port Moresby and Kumul Lodge feeding table near Mount Hagen. At least there any photographing member of the group could fill memory cards for a couple of hours.

One could rightly ask what is then a sense for a bird photographer like me to go with group into PNG? The answer is two-fold: first I'm also a birder and like to see and learn more about birds, not only photograph them. Secondly, doing a private photography expedition there would easily cost more than I could afford. Even the PNG group trip price equals easily ten charter holiday trips cost inside Europe!

People photography: On the contrary to bird photography I would say you can easily photograph people in PNG. Anyway my approach was to take it easy with people photography: I would not like to pay for it neither bother locals with candid shooting of any kind. I have seen loads of tribes people pictures from PNG, but would suspect set up for a few of them. Tourists will see what they are expecting to see, and there is always the money thing involved in too.

One of the most remarkable incident was when we quickly spotted from bus window a group of women doing 'line dance' with bright large red face paintings and equal color wooden poles in their hands. Local guide commented with low and bold tone 'funeral', thus strongly hinting we were not going to return there and spoil the ceremony with reckless shooting. There are some events you should only store in your memory and let you camera stay down, I think I agree with our guide here.

To sum it up this trip was kind of once-a-lifetime trip for most of us. Considering the trouble and price to get into PNG from Finland is not the least of the factors for uniqueness of this trip. I would recommend PNG for experienced birders and bird photographers with already some major trips under their belt. Birds of Paradise are one culminating point in evolution of birds, and that certainly warrants a visit of a World traveling birder in his/her lifetime.


Copyright Jussi Vakkala

jussi vakkala at luukku com